Saturday 2 June

Paris by Mouth - Foodies Tour of Montmartre

Today was a special day as we had booked to meet Meg from  Paris by Mouth a food sensation tour of Montmartre.  We met Meg at 10.30 am in front of the church Eglise Saint-Jean-de-Montmartre after introductions, Meg briefed us on the plan for the tour and we headed off.

Our first stop was Charcuterie Traiteur at 35 rue des Abbesses, they are a deli which also sells prepared food ranging from traditional aspic, entree, main meals and dessert.  Meg introduces us to the shop, showed us around before purchasing items for lunch.

Meg telling us whats on offer before we go in

Chicken roaster, much better than KFC

Our next stop is Au Verger des Abbesses, which is a few doors down, to check out the fresh fruit and vegetables.  Maria and I thought the cherry scoop was a novel idea for serving cherry's. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Our next stop was Fromagerie Marie- Bocquet, 32 Rue Abbesses, Paris, a wonderful shop with a wide range of local cheese where Meg purchased a number of cheeses for lunch.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

We then crossed the street to Vins de Propriete, Caves des Abbesses to purchase some well known French wines.  Meg took the time to talk us through the basics of identifying and selecting good French wine.

We then walked up the hill to Square Suzanne Buisson off rue Girardon where we had a picnic lunch.  On the way we passed the house where the famous French actress Dalida lived. Her grave is in Montmartre Cemetery. We also passed Le Bateau-Lavoir, it is a famous studio for many artists including Pablo Picasso. It is located on rue Ravignan.

Dalida's house on rue Ravignan

Studio Le Bateau-Lavoir where Pablo Picasso lived

 

Square Suzanne Buisson is a totally charming stroll for lovers or a breath of fresh air in this large square, sheltered from noisy cars and traffic - terraces in the Art Deco style, with a fountain, benches and a surprising statue, of Saint Denis (see photo) who was beheaded by the Romans before the Temple of Mercury in the third century and who, as legend would have carried his head to his place of burial (depending on version is located or on the mound or at the Basilica of Saint Denis).

Saint Denis carrying his head

When we arrived at the square it was full of families enjoying the day and allowing their children to run around, kick balls and generally have fun.  A number of tour groups like us walked through the square, many admiring our lunch, with a few envious they weren't joining us.

Meg setting up the table with John watching

Lunch!!

Peter enjoying his lunch

After lunch, Meg had a special surprise for us, desert, but we had a short distance to walk which included a stop for coffee at Cafe des 2 Moulins where the movie Amélie was filmed.

Fresh fish shop cnr rue des Abbesses & Lepic

Cafe des 2 Moulins, rue Lepic - really nice coffee

 

Street scene in Montmartre

Typical shop in Montmartre

Meg's treat for us was a chocolate shop called A l'Etoile d'Or 30, rue Pierre Fontaine. What a great place to learn about chocolate.  We were introduced to Denise Acabo who enthusiastically showed us around her shop.  We tried some of her special chocolates including the chocolate that Merryl Streep singled out as her favorite.  Denise reenacted Merryl's tasting of the chocolate, very entertaining.  If you go to Paris, this is a must!! We succumbed to the tastes and bought chocolate and toffees, non of which will make it back to Australia!!!

The chocolate boxes on display in Denis Abaco's shop (picture above) are the boxes she used to use for her most valued clients, they are now museum pieces, highly valued and not for sale!!

Display of the chocolates and toffee's for sale

Maria enjoying the chocolate that Merryl Streep raved about.

We thoroughly enjoyed Megs guidance through the foods on offer, but it was a small taste of the huge range available, we will just have to return!!

After the tour and a short rest at our apartment, we left for the Eiffel Tower.  We walked 5 minutes to the closest metro station – La Fourche and after some language difficulties with the ticket machine we caught the metro to Invalides exiting via Rue de l’Université, where we walked into Esplanade des Invalides.  This huge open area was full of people enjoying the balmy late afternoon and early evening.  The L'Hôtel national des Invalides is located at the end dominating the gardens.

Metro La Fourche

Another view of the Esplanade des Invalides

We crossed Esplanade des Invalides allong Rue de l’Université heading to the Eiffel Tower.  Our route took us past the Musée du quai Branly where a significant collection of Aboriginal art is on display (Museum Victoria is sending over a display as well).

Building on Rue de l'Universite

Looking at Musee du quai Branly with some Aboriginal art visible

Interesting gates just off Rue de l'Universite

Finally we arrived at the Eiffel Tower (Welcome to the Eiffel Tower), It is a magnificent structure with a huge number of people around its base admiring it.  The queues were long, an hour to get a ticket for the lift up the tower, because only one lift was working, the wait in the line to the lift was about 30 minutes, if you had pre-purchased or had reservations you still had a 20 minute wait.  The other alternative was the stairs, a shorter queue but not really suitable for Maria.

 

 

So walked across the Pont d’léna over the  Seine River and up the hill to the Esplanade du Trocedéro to get a view of the Eiffel Tower after dusk when it would be lit up.  The view was fantastic and just like people describe it. 

 

Looking from the bridge over the River Sien to where the buses and passenger boats meet

The crowd on the Esplanade du Trocedero waiting for it to get dark

Unfortunately it does not get dark until 9.30 pm and we were all getting tired (by this time Maria was finding the walk increasingly difficult but was not prepared to miss out) and hungry.  Whilst the other’s walked back, Maria, John and I caught a taxi to a restaurant Meg (from Paris by Food) referred us too   Café Constant corner of rue Saint Dominique and rue Augereau, Meg advised that the chef is very good.  On arrival we were told there was a 30 minute wait, so we waited for Monika, Arlene, Luisa and Peter to arrive.  The café was very busy and full, but they accommodated us with drinks until our table upstairs was ready.  The food arrived and was very good and not too expensive.

Dessert!!

We walked down to Av Bosquet to catch taxis back to the apartment.  Maria, Monika, Peter and I caught one taxi and were fortunate that the driver took us back past the Eiffel Tower to see the tower lit up.  It was now past 11.30 pm and we were amazed at the number of people still walking around.